approx: approximately
beg: begin(s)(ning)
BO: Bind Off (Cast Off)
CC: Contrasting Color
circ: circumference
cn: cable needle
CO: Cast On
cont: continue(s)(ing)
dec: decrease(s)(d)(ing)
dpn(s): double-pointed needle(s)
est: establish(ed)
inc: increase(s)(d)(ing)
k: knit
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together
kfb: knit into front and back of stitch
MC : Main Color
p: purl
p2tog: purl 2 stitches together
patt(s): pattern(s)

pfb: purl into front and back of stitch
pm: place marker
rep(s): repeat(s)
rnd(s): round(s)
RS: Right Side
s2kp2: Slip 2 stitches together to the right needle as if to knit, knit the next stitch, then pass the 2 slipped stitches over.
sl: slip
sm: slip marker
ssk: slip, slip, knit. Slip 2 stitches individually to the right needle as if to knit, then slide the left needle into the stitches from left to right and knit the 2 stitches together.
st(s): stitch(es)
St st: Stockinette stitch (see Techniques)
tbl: through back of loop(s)
w&t: wrap and turn (see Techniques)
WS: Wrong Side
yo: yarn over

Garter stitch
Knit all rows when working flat. Alternate knit 1 round, purl 1 round when working in the round.

I-cord
When working I-cord, work is not turned. * Using a double-pointed needle, knit one row. Instead of turning the work around to work back on the wrong side, slide all stitches to the other end of the needle, switch the needle back to your left hand, bring the yarn around the back of the work, and knit across again, giving the yarn a sharp tug after 2 stitches to close the gap. Repeat from * to form I-cord. After a few rows, the work will begin to form a tube.

Kitchener Stitch
Also known as grafting. For complete instructions please visit Knitty Summer 2004.

M1 Increases
M1(L): Make 1 (Left) increase
Lift bar between stitches from front to back with the left needle and then knit through the back of it with the right needle.

M1R: Make 1 Right increase
Lift bar between stitches from back to front with the left needle and then knit through the front of it with the right needle.

Short Rows
Wrap and turn
Right Side (RS): Work in pattern to the stitch to be wrapped, move yarn to front of work and slip next stitch as if to knit. Bring yarn to back and turn work to other side. With WS facing, slip same stitch back to right needle as if to purl. Proceed to work across row in pattern.

Wrong Side (WS): Work in pattern to the stitch to be wrapped, move yarn to back of work and slip next stitch as if to purl. Bring yarn to front and turn work to other side. With RS facing, slip same stitch back to right needle as if to purl. Proceed to work across row in pattern. The resulting wrap will look like a "necklace" or "noose" around your stitch.

Picking up wraps
Note : Picking up and knitting the wraps, while not absolutely necessary, makes the wraps invisible and produces a much neater look to your finished piece.

Pull each wrap over to the wrong side of your work as follows:

Right Side (RS): Work to previously wrapped stitch. Insert right needle tip under wrap from the bottom up. Pull it up and over the stitch it was wrapping and onto the needle. The wrap will now be behind the stitch on the left needle. Knit both the stitch and the wrap together through the back loop. The wrap should be completely invisible from the RS.

Wrong Side (WS): Work to previously wrapped stitch. Insert right hand needle tip under wrap on the RS of your work from the bottom up (just as for the RS instructions). Since the WS is facing you, you will have to twist your work to do this. Pull it up and over the stitch it was wrapping towards the WS that is facing you and onto the needle. The wrap will now be behind the stitch on the left hand needle. Purl both the stitch and the wrap together. The wrap should be completely invisible from the RS.

Stockinette stitch
Knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side when working flat. Knit all rounds when working in the round.

Work Even
Work stitches in pattern as they appear without increasing or decreasing.